miðvikudagur, mars 29, 2006

Frumskógarnaetur II

Frumskógurinn tók vel á móti okkur og byrjadi á thví ad bíta okkur allharkalega til ad bjóda okkur velkomin. Vid héldum sem sagt ad thad vaeri nóg ad bera á okkur flugnafaelu thar sem sást í skinn og thar sem flugurnar gaetu komist ad, en ó nei, thaer bitu í gegnum föt. Thetta olli thví ad ég fékk um 30 bit á laerin og gat thví varla sofid um nóttina vegna kláda og óthaeginda. Sem betur fer lenti Snaebjorn ekki jafn illa í thví og gat thví daelt í mig ofnaemislyfjum til ad minnka kládann. Á thessum tímapunkti var ordid hálf vonlaust ad halda talningu bita áfram en aetli vid séum ekki komin langt yfir tvö hundrud bitin ef vid teljum allt saman.

Samferdamenn okkar í thessari ferd var saenska parid Lars og Viktor. Their voru a thriggja vikna ferd um Brasilíu ádur en their héldu aftur heim í kuldann í Svíthjód. Their voru mjog hressir og hofdu mikinn áhuga á íslenskunni og á samanburdi íslenskra og saenskra orda. Og eftir allan thennan samanburd komumst vid ad theirri „merkilegu“ nidurstödu, sem var vitud fyrirfram, ad thessi tungumál eiga mjog mikid sameiginlegt.

Ferdin var frábaer í alla stadi, ef ad frátalin eru öll bitin. Dagarnir voru yfirleitt skipulagdir thannig ad vid hófum daginn med morgunmati klukkan sjö og vorum svo farin út úr húsi/kofa klukkan átta. Vid komum svo aftur í hádegismat um tólf leytid og eftir thad tekin pása til klukkan thrjú, thar sem baedi dýr og menn fúnkera ekki alveg nógu vel í öllum thessum hita og raka, og thví lítid og erfitt ad sjá eitthvad á thessum tíma. Siestunni var thví yfirleitt eytt liggjandi í hengirúmi med bók vid hönd.

Í ferdinni sáum vid öll ósköpin af fuglategundum, og thví midur er minni mitt ekki nógu gott til ad nefna thaer allar auk thess sem ensku nöfnin á theim virtust ekki klingja mörgum bjöllum. Thau nöfn sem ég man hins vegar var ad vid sáum svart-, gul- og raudhöfda hraegamma svo og hraegamm sem ég veit ekki hvad heitir á íslensku en kallast á ensku „bare-headed vulture“ en gaeti útlagst nakinhöfda hraegammur eda eitthvad í thá áttina (ef einhver veit hina rétta thýdingu má hann endilega skella henni í athugasemdarkerfid). Einnig sáum vid líka „kónga“ hraegamm (e. king-vulture). Einnig brugdu fyrir tucan, storkar og „Festive“ páfagaukar sem eru skaergraenir.

En thótt vid höfum séd svona marga fugla thá held ég ad vid höfum heyrt í enn thá fleiri. Einn fuglinn virtist alltaf vera ad hlaegja ad okkur, annar gaf frá sér hljód sem hljómadi alveg eins og stefid sem er flautad á eftir fallega fólkinu og öllum páfagaukum er kennt. (Hvernig lýsir madur hljódi í ordum?)

Einn morguninn héldum vid svo í thriggja klukkutíma göngu um frumskóginn. Thar sáum vid m.a. hinar ýmsar laekningaplöntur. Ein plantan átti ad vera gegn höfudverk, önnur gegn magaverk, thridja gegn krabbameini og til var planta gegn nánast öllum kvillum. Malaríu, ofnaemi, svo var líka haegt ad drekka seydi af plöntu sem átti ad virka líkt og getnadarvarnarpillan. Eitt tréid átti ad vera gott gegn krónískum sjúkdómum og til ad ná í vökvann úr trénu var stungid í thad med hníf, laufbladi stungid í gatid og thví naest draup hvítur vökvinn úr og vid fengum ad smakka. Einnig fundum vid kínín-tré og jurt sem er notud í hitakrem.

Edson, leidsögumadurinn okkar, sýndi okkur einnig hvernig innfaeddir voru vanir ad verja sig gegn moskítóflugum, en sú adferd tengist notkun á maurabúum. Their sem sagt klaeddu sig úr öllum fötum og fylltu upp í nef og eyru svo ad ekkert gaeti skridid inn thar. Thví naest fóru their ad thessu sérstaka maurabúi, brutu thad og leyfdu maurunum ad skrída um sig alla. Thar á eftir klaeddu their sig aftur í og héldu sína leid. Vörnin er sem sagt sú ad thegar maurarnir skrída gefa their frá sér sérstaka lykt sem festist á húdinni og faelir moskítóflugurnar frá. Edson sýndi okkur thetta med thví ad stinga hönd sinni inn í maurabú og leyfdi okkur svo ad finna lyktina. Vid sáum líka ógrynnin öll af köngulóm, en sú staersta í thessari gönguferd er köllud „Bird-Eater“ og er víst af tarantúlluaett. Hún var ljót, lodin og risastór og vid fundum hana sem sagt med thví ad egna hana út úr holu sinni med strái. Vid sáum líka eitradan frosk. Hann var pínulítill, skaergraenn og virtist ekki vera froskur til ad valda einhverjum vandraedum, en madur aetti ekki ad láta blekkja sig.

Á göngu okkar um frumskóginn rákumst vid allt í einu á tvö pör af sandölum og risa svedju. Stuttu seinna sáum vid tvo berfaetta krakka, 14, 15 ára, á ráfi med haglabyssu, en thau voru víst ad leita ad vörtusvíni sem var í grenndinni, en ummerki thess mátti sjá í drullupolli sem thad hefdi velt sér í. Sú hugsun ljóst mig hversu allt ödruvísi barnaeska thessarra krakka vaeri frá minni eigin, og thó ég hafi hlaupid upp á fjall og vadid í ánnum í Mosfellsbaenum thá fór ég samt aldrei á veidar né thurfti nokkrar áhyggjur ad hafa á hvernig maturinn kaemist á eldhúsbordid heima hjá mér.

Í frumskógargöngutúrnum smökkudum vid, ásamt einstaka laeknajurtum, brasilískar hnetur (ég held ad thaer séu kalladar thad á íslensku...). Thaer kallast „Pará-nuts“ á ensku vegna héradsins í Brasilíu sem flytur út mest af theim. Ótrúlegt hvad orkan í hnetunum hressti okkur vid eftir langan göngutúr.

Frumskógurinn sjálfur er magnadur, thad maetti eiginlega líkja honum vid hafid, svo ógnarfagur en um leid veldur hann med manni einhverri óttatilfinningu. Tilfinningin ad labba um í thykkum frumskóginum er yfirthyrmandi, allt ad thví ad valda innilokunarkennd thar sem ad hann er svo thykkur. Thad ad fólk sem villist í frumskógi gangi af göflunum, finnst mér ekki skrýtid.

Bátsferdir voru fleiri en gönguferdir og mörgum tímum eytt í ad róa um „flaediskóg“, thad er ad segja thann hluta frumskógarins sem Amazon flaedir yfir. Thad er vodalega dularfullt ad róa á milli trjánna í leit ad hinu og thessum dýrum. Allir thögulir til ad styggja ekki dýrin. Ádur hins vegar en haldid er í frumskógarferd má ekki gera sér of miklar vonir, thví eins og ádur sagdi er frumskógurinn mjög thykkur og mörg dýranna halda sig inn í honum midjum. Vid vorum hins vegar ágaetlega heppin og sáum medal annars baedi gráa og bleika höfrunga sem lifa í Amazon fljótinu. Vid skelltum okkur meira ad segja til sunds med theim thó ad their hafi bara synt í burtu thegar vid skjanna-hvítu höfrungarnir frá Íslandi og Svíthjód stungum okkur út í.

Thann sama dag fórum vid á Pírana-fiska veidar. Thad var einstaklega gaman thótt ad ég hafi bara veitt einn ( húkkadi reyndar í augad á greyinu... telst sam veidi ekki satt...?) og Snaebjorn veiddi ekki neinn. Adalveidimennirnir voru leidsogumadurinn okkar og Viktor hinn saenski. Vid höldum thví stadfastlega fram ad their hafi fengid betri bambus veidistöng.

Um kvöldid thegar vid vorum á leidinni heim í frumskógar-baekistödina stoppadi kanóinn okkar til ad leita ad Caiman-krókódílum. Vid eyddum um hálftíma í ad dorma medfram bökkum ánnar og allt í einu snýr leidsögumadur okkar vid og bidur saenska samferdalang okkar hann Lars ad halda á einhverju fyrir sig. Thetta eitthvad reyndist vera árs gamall Caimann-krókudíll. Thad er ótrúlegt ad fá ad halda á svona skepnu og hann var alveg kjurr og eflaust bara skíthraeddur greyid. Thessi krókudíll var bara unglamb og thví ekki stór, en tennurnar í honum voru thrátt fyrir thad nógu andskoti beittar. Vid fengum öll ad halda á honum og strjúka mjúkum maga hans og hördu baki.

Heppnin lék vid okkur og vid vorum einn af fáum hópum sem stadsettir voru í frumskógarbaekistodinni sem fengum ad sjá apa. Vid sáum tvaer gerdir af öpum, thótt vid getum thví midur ekki nefnt tegund theirra. Thetta voru litlir saetir apar sem flugu á milli trjánna. Vid vorum svo heppin ad sjá thá tvo daga í röd á fjórum mismunandi stödum. Their eru ótrúlega snöggir og thví erfitt ad ná mynd af theim, en thví skemmtilegra ad fylgjast med theim og hlusta á hljódin frá theim.

En apar voru ekki einu spendýrin sem vid sáum thví vid fengum einnig ad sjá letidýr. Vid byrjudum á ad sjá nokkur steinsofandi letidýr, en thad er vodalega erfitt ad sjá thau upp í trjánum thar sem thau hjúfra sig saman í lita lodnar kúlur sem í fjarlaegd líkist bara gráu termítabúi. En letidýr sofa um 15 til 18 klukkustundir á hverjum sólarhring. Thví urdum vid mjög hamingjusöm thegar vid sáum letidýr vera ad borda hátt upp í tré og fikra sig svo mjööööööög haegt nidur. Vid tókum meira ad segja myndbandsupptöku af thví thegar thad fikradi sig nidur.
Margir leidsögumenn stunda thad víst ad taka letidýrin nidur úr trjánum til ad leyfa ferdamönnunum ad halda á theim og taka myndir af sér med theim. Edson tjádi okkur hins vegar ad letidýrin vaeru mjög vidkvaem dýr og ad komid hefdu upp mörg daemi thess ad letidýr veiktust eftir ad hafa verid nálaegt mönnum og skridu svo bara inn í skóg og daeju. Letidýrin eyda staerstum hluta lífs síns upp í tré en thad kemur fyrir ad their syndi yfir ár.... mjööööög haegt og eru thar med audveld brád fyrir t.d. krókódíla sem og ránfugla.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Örlítid er eftir ad frumskógaraevintýrinu og verdur thridji hlutinn jafnframt sá sídasti. Haegt og rólega virdumst vid vera ad fikra okkur í áttina ad núinu á thessu bloggi. Vid erum enn stödd í Buenos Aires og tjah viljum bara helst ekkert fara hédan. Vid komumst nefnilega ad thví ad thad eru ekki bara steikurnar og raudvínin hérna sem gefa manni vatn í munninn heldur er ísinn hérna líka himneskur. Argentína er náttúrulega ad stórum hluta byggd af afkomendum Ítala sem komu med íshefd sína hinga yfir hafid og ef eitthvad er hafa baett hana med öllum mögulegum ávaxta bragdtegundum. Ísinn hér slagar ad minnsta kosti hátt upp í besta ís sem ég hef smakkad, sem var á Markúsartorgi í Feneyjum. Sá ís var bragdadur í fylgd med Önnu Samúelsdóttur í útskriftarferd okkar sumarid 2004 og getur hún vitnad um gaedi íssins.

Annars bid ég ykkur bara vel ad lifa :)

Innskot: Fleiri myndir áttu ad fara med thessari faerslu, en thar sem ad rafmagnid fór af netkaffihúsinu á medan ipod-inn okkar (og myndageymsla) var tengdur, vill hann ekki hlada inn fleiri myndum. Myndir verda settar med faerslunni um leid og haegt er.

59 Comments:

Anonymous Nafnlaus said...

#Öfund#Öfund#Öfund# Ohhhh,hvað mig langar að vera þarna með ykkur. Þetta er ekkert smá ævintýri!! -Stonie

1/4/06 13:13  
Blogger Sigurjón said...

Ofboðslega eru þessi letidýr mögnuð. Greyin. Og krókudíllinn...

Annars þarf ég varla að taka það fram, að ég bíð spenntur eftir þessum myndum.

1/4/06 18:08  
Anonymous Nafnlaus said...

Vá.. ótrúlega hefur verið gaman að sjá öll þessi dýr :) Framandi..

Ég hefði þó alveg getað sleppt því að sjá köngulóna ef ég væri í ykkar sporum... hehe..

3/4/06 03:29  
Blogger Erna Blöndal said...

Æðislegt!
Við Jensi (minn sko) erum með algjört "thing" fyrir frumskógum þannig að öfund hér í Blásölum er í hámarki. :)

kveðjur og kossar!

3/4/06 12:22  
Blogger Una said...

Þið eruð nú bara alveg kreisí bjútífúl ha.

3/4/06 14:36  
Anonymous Nafnlaus said...



Gaman að fylgjast með ykkur.

Þið hafið bara séð fullt af skrítnum dýrum, könglulær, apa, letidýr og tvo Svía.

Kveðja
MAMMA

Bætti við nokkrum myndum af prinsinum.

3/4/06 14:47  
Blogger Sigurjón said...

Já, ég ætti kannski að fara að halda svona frumskógardagbók....

3/4/06 19:05  
Anonymous Nafnlaus said...

Ég lifi í gegnum ykkur, ekki spurning! Fyrirlestrar á mánudagsmorgnum hjá mér eru ekki nærri því eins skemmtilegir og frásagnirnar ykkar af letidýrum og eitruðum köngulóm! Þegar ég horfi út um gluggann sé ég bara plaststork í garði nágrannans að drepast úr kulda ;)

3/4/06 20:37  
Blogger Anna said...

Ég vitna hér með um gæði íssins. Sjitt, hvað hann var góður. Nú komstu greinilega í góðan ís!
Annars er alltaf jafn gaman að lesa um ævintýrin ykkar, eins og að lesa skemmtilega skáldsögu!

4/4/06 14:32  
Anonymous Nafnlaus said...

Takk kærlega fyrir póstkortið...það braut upp hversdagsgrámann hér heima að finna smjörþefinn af Ríó.
Óska ykkur alls hins besta.

4/4/06 17:39  
Blogger Una said...

Hæ takk fyrir póstkortið frá Ríó! Það kom akkúrat á afmælisdaginn minn, skemmtileg tilviljun það, og yljaði mér að innan. Að vísu er alveg 15 stiga hiti hérna svo ég var ekkert að krókna...en eftir sem áður. Takk fyrir mig.

4/4/06 22:38  
Anonymous Nafnlaus said...

hæ bara smá kvitt!
Kíki reglulega hingað inn alltaf gaman að lesa svona ævintýri.
Hafið það obbógott og gaman sæta fólk :)
kossar
Heiðan

og jó til hamingju með litla bró

7/4/06 08:53  
Anonymous Nafnlaus said...

hæ! hehe Ég fylgist líka með! Smá öfund í gangi hérna sko.... en vorið hlýtur að fara að koma hér (krossa fingur) og þá verður maður kanski aðeins sáttari með það sem maður hefur hehe....
hafið það gott krúttípútt og skemmtið ykkur vel

7/4/06 20:30  
Blogger Ariana said...

Vá! Að lesa þetta blogg vekur upp sömu tilfinningar hjá mér og þegar ég las um ævintýri Svals og Vals í Dal útlaganna í fyrsta sinn.

19/4/06 17:50  
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